cited groups were
congregated in the Market Square. Our _feu-de-joie_ was speedily
explained, and the men flocked into the inn. As a slight return for
the fright we had given them, we paid for a few quarts of spirits. The
Governor overlooked our law-breaking, for after dark firing is not
allowed, and no doubt he envied us in his heart, for, poor man, he is
in the clutches of the Band of Good Hope, much, we heard, to his
disgust.

We left next day, and had a hearty send-off from the town, who turned
out _en masse_ to witness our departure. The local doctor was not
present. We had found no favour in his eyes.

Shortly after leaving the town we passed the Montenegrin Militia, hard
at their weekly drill. No uniform is worn, every man coming in his
everyday clothes, bringing only his rifle. But they drill very well
and the discipline is excellent. A company was being dismissed as we
came up, and a large number accompanied us for a long way.

The ride was magnificent that afternoon. The way wound up and up, and
our last glimpse of Kolasin showed us the little town far away below
us.

The usual Montenegrin trick was again played successfully on us, the
"only two hours' ride" developing into a journey of six hours. But
to-day we did not murmur; it is only at the end of a long and trying
day that this style of humour is out of place.

For two hours our path threaded its way through dense beech forests.
At one spot P. and I had ridden on so far in advance of the others
that we dismounted and waited for them to come up. In the interval I
was assailed by a man with a bandaged head. Doctors always wear
European clothes in Montenegro, and without further inquiry, this man
proceeded to sit down before me and remove his bandages, disclosing
ultimately a ghastly eye.

"What must I do for it, Gospodin Doctor?" he asked at length, for
beyond the usual greeting he had not spoken. One glance was
sufficient, and P. got up and left us.

"Take it away!" I said, with averted face. "I am not a doctor, and
never shall be."

I felt him looking at me with his uninjured eye. These simple
peasants are always under the impression that our modern education
comprises that of medicine.

"But, Gospodin, it has been like this for weeks," he went on, "and is
very painful."

"There is a doctor at Kolasin. Go to him. _He_ will be pleased."

Evidently much hurt at my indifference, he slowly replaced his
bandages and departed. Then our party cau