are not easily to be procured.
We were also shown some beautiful shells and weapons, and a war-jacket
made of bearskin, decorated with small bells and pieces cut from
kerosene-oil tins.

Our drive down to the shore, along the grassy roads of the park, in
the clear moonlight, was most delightful. The yacht had gone off to
her anchorage, and we had to wait some time for a boat. In the
interval we amused ourselves with a Chinese open-air theatre, waxwork
exhibition, and a puppet-show.

_Thursday, April 7th._--Weighed at 7 A.M. Mr. Everett and Lieutenant
Hamilton came on board, and soon afterwards the mail steamer arrived,
with the Bishop on board. We steamed across to the mouth of the Brunei
River, admiring the beautiful views on our way, especially at Coal
Point, where we transferred ourselves to the Rajah of Sarawak's
steamer 'Lorna Doone,' and proceeded up the river, the scenery of
which is very picturesque. The late Sultan built a wall of stones
across the channel with the view of keeping out the British fleet
under Sir Thomas Cochrane and Captain Keppel--now Admiral of the Fleet
Sir Harry Keppel; and although he did not succeed in his object, the
result has been to make the navigation extremely difficult. The bay
itself is surrounded by vast forests, and not long ago a steamer was
prevented from entering the river for three days, in consequence of a
fierce jungle fire, the dense volumes of smoke from which completely
obscured the entrance. The hills on either side of the river are
prettily wooded, but here and there the land has been cleared and laid
out in terraces for the cultivation of pepper by the Chinese. Brunei
River has been called the Rhine of the East, and I think it deserves
that name better than the town does its proud title of the Venice of
the East, the sole point of resemblance in the latter case being that
both cities are built upon piles.

Some members of another tribe of Dyaks came on board to-day, with
seven heads which they had captured, not on the war-path, but while
engaged in a nominally peaceful expedition into the jungle in search
of gutta-percha, camphor, and beeswax. They had chanced to come across
some natives belonging to a hostile tribe, and had promptly secured as
many heads as they could.

The approach to the town of Brunei is extremely picturesque, but the
place itself is not imposing. The wooden houses stand, as I have said,
upon piles, and there is no means of communication betw