the mill-hands are at work
night and day, while from November to February the mills are as a rule
closed. In the establishment which we visited a hundred tons of rice
are turned out every twelve hours, several processes having to be gone
through before the 'paddy' is converted into 'white rice' of the first
quality.

While rice is the main element in the trade of Rangoon, teak is the
principal article at Moulmein. The finest teak forests are to be found
in Northern Burmah. The tree does not flourish south of the 16th
degree of latitude.

[Illustration: Moulmein River Boat]

Returned on board to breakfast, to which Dr. and Mrs. Pedley came.
Busy morning with letters and callers. Among the latter were Lord and
Lady Stafford, on their way to join the 'Kilwa,' in which they proceed
to Moulmein and Singapore. Captain Fanshawe also called, and Mr. Symes
and Mr. Hodgkinson came to lunch. Some Burmese curiosity-vendors paid
us a visit in the afternoon, and we made some purchases, chiefly of
silver and gongs. Posted our budget of letters and sent off telegrams
in the evening, and sailed from Rangoon at 11 P.M.

[Illustration: On the Irrawaddy]

[Illustration: MOULMEIN, FROM THE RIVER]

_Saturday, March 19th._--Arrived off the Salwen River about 1 P.M.,
but found that the tide did not suit for going up to Moulmein. We
therefore had to anchor until the next morning. Coast pretty,
undulating, and covered with jungle. At five o'clock we landed and
went to the water pagoda at Point Amherst--a curious wooden structure,
held sacred by the Buddhists. Pilgrimages are annually made to this
spot from all parts of Burmah and Siam, and are the occasion of vast
gatherings of people, who live and sleep entirely in the open air.
There is a small native village close by, and also a post-office,
telegraph-office, and pilot station; while in the neighbourhood are
many of the summer-dwellings of the Rangoon and Moulmein merchants.

_Sunday, March 20th._--Steam up early. At 10 A.M. we started to ascend
the river to Moulmein. Passed the 'Kilwa' coming down, and arrived
about one o'clock. Moulmein is admirably situated on a range of
hills, rising to a considerable elevation on the left bank of the
Salwen. The town is embosomed in trees, and pagodas and shrines occupy
every prominent position. The population consists largely of
foreigners, Chinese and Hindoos forming a large proportion of the
aggregate number of 50,000. The navigation from the