and light, but it did not seem to temper the intense heat. At noon we
were exactly under the sun, and were therefore all as shadowless as
Peter Schlemihl. Despite the heat we had the Litany at half-past
eleven, and evening-service at half-past six. At 10 P.M. we anchored
off Tanjong Pulo, at the mouth of the river Kuching, on which stands
Kuching itself, the capital of Sarawak.

Tom feels the heat greatly, and has been unwell for the last day or
two. To-night I had an anxious time looking after him, and could get
no help from the Doctor, who was himself ill and delirious.

_Monday, April 4th._--The anchor was hove at 6.30 A.M., and we
proceeded towards the entrance to the river, meeting several natives
in fishing-boats, who told us that Rajah Brooke was away at Labuan in
his steam-yacht the 'Aline.' We therefore hesitated about going up the
river, especially without a pilot; but it seemed a pity to be so near
and to miss the opportunity of seeing Kuching. So off we went up the
narrow muddy stream, guided only by the curious direction-boards fixed
at intervals on posts in the water, or hung from trees on the banks.

[Illustration: Navigation Boards, River Kuching]

This plan of making every man his own pilot seems both sensible and
useful; but the general effect of the notice-boards was not
picturesque. The wording of some of the notices was brief and
practical, though such a caution as 'Hug this close on the outside,'
painted in large letters on a board at the water's edge, had a certain
quaintness about it which amused us. We ascended the river at
half-tide, when the channel is pretty clearly apparent; but at high
tide the way must be difficult to find. The scenery was somewhat
monotonous until we approached Kuching, but we were assured that
further inland, towards the mountains, it becomes really beautiful.
The town itself seemed a busy little place, and there were two
steamers lying alongside the wharf. Our arrival, without a pilot,
caused much surprise, especially as we had not been expected until a
day or two later. In fact, a pilot was just starting for the mouth of
the river to look out for us. The 'Lorna Doone,' a small steamer, had
also been despatched to Labuan to let the Rajah know that we were
coming. After reaching our destination we found great difficulty in
turning round, owing to the narrowness of the river. The heat was
fearful, and the sun poured down through the double awnings with an
intensity wh