s storming and capture by the English, under General
Godwin, in 1852. The naval officers who are depicted carry telescopes
of somewhat inconvenient length for practical purposes; but the
uniforms of the bluejackets, soldiers, and marines are fairly correct,
and all the figures are carved with great spirit.

The pagoda is supposed to have been commenced 588 years B.C., in order
to enshrine some hairs of Buddha and the bathing-gown of another holy
man who lived two thousand years before him. The building was enlarged
from time to time (especially when eight hairs from Gautama's beard
were added to the sacred collection), and is now a solid mass of
bricks, arranged in rows of steps, with three shrines to hold the
precious relics, erected at various heights. The carved teak with
which it is covered is solidly gilt from top to bottom, and this
process costs 30,000_l._ each time it is repeated. The new _htee_ was
sent down from Mandalay in 1882, and was received with the greatest
pomp and ceremony by all the officials, both European and Burmese.

To wander round the top platform or courtyard outside the pagoda in
the twilight and listen to the bells was an extraordinary experience
for all of us. The big Burmese bells are celebrated for their tone,
especially those in the temples. The smaller bells are also good, as
are the triangular gongs, called, from their shape, stirrup-gongs. The
little bells which are hung on the _htees_ at the tops of the various
pinnacles surrounding the soda-water bottles have long clappers,
easily moved by the wind; and the sound of these various bells and
gongs borne on the evening breeze is harmonious in the extreme.

The King of Siam has constructed a fine rest-house just outside the
gates, for the use of the people of his nation, the pagoda itself
being open to all peoples, kingdoms, and races. A private individual
also built a magnificent wooden rest-house, at the cost of a lac of
rupees, just before Lord Ripon visited Rangoon. This virtuous act was
supposed to assure him on his death immediate _nirvana_, or transition
to Paradise without undergoing the process of transmigration or the
ordeal of Purgatory. As a mark of loyalty and admiration, the founder
transferred not only the rest-house, but all the eternal privileges
which he had gained by building it, to His Excellency, in recognition
of his endeavours to gain for the natives of India a larger amount of
liberty and greater privileges.