numerous and the water generally is shallow.
This native craft was rigged very much like an ordinary pilot-boat,
and flew a huge ensign at the main until dark, besides burning enough
blue lights, flash-lights, and flare-lights afterwards to draw any
ship from her safe course. It would therefore not have been surprising
if we had allowed ourselves to be misled by her. We heard afterwards
that only a few days ago she nearly led H.M.S. 'Jumna' on to a
dangerous shoal.

[Illustration: Entrance to Caves at Moulmein]

CHAPTER VI.

_RANGOON._

_Thursday, March 17th._--The government pilot came on board at 6 A.M.,
and we at once got up the anchor and proceeded under steam up the
branch of the Irrawaddy called the Rangoon River, leading to the town
of that name. Its banks are flat, low, and densely wooded. The Great
Pagoda is seen shortly after entering the mouth, and at Monkey Point
the river divides into two portions (one of which is only a creek,
while the other is the main branch, which passes Rangoon). Later on
the factories, wharves, offices, public buildings and houses of the
city become visible in quick succession.

Little more than thirty years ago Rangoon consisted of a mere swamp,
with a few mat huts mounted on wooden piles, and surrounded by a log
stockade and fosse. Now it is a city of 200,000 inhabitants, the
terminus of a railway, and almost rivals Bombay in beauty and extent.
It possesses fine palaces, public offices, and pagodas; warehouses,
schools, hospitals, lovely gardens and lakes, excellent roads, and
shady promenades.

[Illustration: Merchant Dhows, Indian Ocean]

We arrived opposite the town about half-past ten, passing through
quite a crowd of shipping, amongst which were several fine clippers
and steamers, bound to all parts of the world. The rice season is now
at its height, and everybody is working his hardest. So great is the
competition, that some merchants complain that they have made no
profit since the time of the great Indian famines of 1874 and 1877,
the only successful traders now being the owners of mills, who derive
their gains from merely crushing rice.

Early in the afternoon, Mr. Symes, Secretary to the Chief
Commissioner, came on board, bringing a kind note from Mrs.
Crossthwaite, the wife of the Chief Commissioner (who is away in
Mandalay), asking us all to go and stay at Government House during our
visit to Rangoon. We declined this proffered kindness, but accepted