of it until that
time, letting myself give but a short notice of its more simple forms.

We see the caul grow from its circular shape into two box forms on
either side of the head; the uppermost points of the boxes are
arranged in horns, whose points are of any length from 4 to 14 inches.
The top of this head-dress is covered with a wimple, which is
sometimes stiffened with wires.

[Illustration: A WOMAN OF THE TIME OF HENRY V. (1413-1422)

Her surcoat is stiffened in front with fur and shaped with a band of
metal. Her belt is low on the hips of the under-dress. The horns on
her head carry the large linen wimple.]

There is also a shape something like a fez or a flower-pot, over which
a heavy wimple is hung, attached to this shape; outside the wimple are
two horns of silk, linen, or stuff--that is, silk bags stuffed to the
likeness of horns.

I should say that a true picture of this time would give but few of
these very elaborate horn head-dresses, and the mass of women would be
wearing the round caul.

[Illustration: {A woman of the time of Henry V.}]

The surcoat over the cotehardie is the general wear, but it has more
fit about it than formerly; the form of the waist and bust are
accentuated by means of a band of heavy gold embroidery, shaped to the
figure. The edges of the surcoat are furred somewhat heavily, and the
skirt often has a deep border of fur. Sometimes a band of metal
ornament runs across the top of the breast and down the centre of the
surcoat, coming below the fur edging. The belt over the hips of the
cotehardie holds the purse, and often a ballade or a rondel.

You will see a few of the old houppelandes, with their varieties of
sleeve, and in particular that long, loose double sleeve, or, rather,
the very long under-sleeve, falling over the hand. This under-sleeve
is part of the houppelande.

All the dresses have trains, very full trains, which sweep the ground,
and those readers who wish to make such garments must remember to be
very generous over the material.

The women commonly wear the semicircular mantle, which they fasten
across them by cords running through ornamental brooches.

They wear very rich metal and enamel belts round their hips, the exact
ornamentation of which cannot be described here; but it was the
ornament of the age, which can easily be discovered.

In the country, of course, simpler garments prevail, and plain
surcoats and cotehardies are wrapped in cl