ssion of his
mouth. We rolled merrily along--the horses sometimes spreading, and
sometimes closing, according to the size of the streets through which we
were compelled to pass. The reins and harness are of _cord_; which, however
keep together pretty well. The postilion endeavours to break the rapidity
of the descent by conducting the wheels over small piles of gravel or
rubbish, which are laid at the sides of the road, near the ditch; so that,
to those sitting in the cabriolet, and overlooking the whole process, the
effect, with weak nerves, is absolutely terrific. They stop little in
changing horses, and the Diligence is certainly well managed, and in
general no accidents occur.
The road from Dieppe to Rouen is wide, hard, and in excellent condition.
There are few or no hedges, but rows of apple-trees afford a sufficient
line of demarkation. The country is open, and gently undulating; with
scarcely any glimpses of what is called forest-scenery, till you get
towards the conclusion of the first stage. Nothing particularly strikes you
till you approach _Malaunai_, within about half a dozen miles of Rouen, and
of course after the last change of horses. The environs of this beautiful
village repay you for every species of disappointment, if any should have
been experienced. The rising banks of a brisk serpentine trout stream are
studded with white houses, in which are cotton manufactories that appear to
be carried on with spirit and success. Above these houses are hanging
woods; and though the early spring would scarcely have coated the branches
with green in our own country, yet _here_ there was a general freshness of
verdure, intermingled with the ruddy blossom of the apple; altogether
rejoicing the eye and delighting the heart. Occasionally there were
delicious spots, which the taste and wealth of an Englishman would have
embellished to every possible degree of advantage. But wealth, for the
gratification of picturesque taste, is a superfluity that will not quickly
fall to the lot of the French. The Revolution seems to have drained their
purses, as well as daunted their love of enterprise. Along the road-side
there were some few houses of entertainment; and we observed the emptied
cabriolet and stationary voiture, by the side of the gardens, where
Monsieur and Madame, with their families, tripped lightly along the vistas,
and tittered as John Bull saluted them. Moving vehicles, and numerous
riding and walking groups, in
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