t choir profusely gilded, and (rarer accompaniment!) in very excellent
taste. But the stained glass is the chief magnet of attraction. It is rich,
varied, and vivid to a degree; and, upon the whole, is the finest specimen
of this species of art in the present ecclesiastical remains of the city.
_St. Vivien_ is the second of these two former. It is a fine open church,
with a large organ, having a very curious wooden screen in front,
elaborately carved, and, as I conceive, of the very earliest part of the
sixteenth century. I ascended the organ-loft; and the door happening to be
open, I examined this screen (which has luckily escaped the yellow-ochre
edict) very minutely, and was much gratified by the examination. Such
pieces of art, so situated, are of rare occurrence. For the first time,
within a parish church, I stepped upon the pavement of the choir: walked
gently forwards, to the echo of my own footsteps, (for not a creature was
in the church) and, "with no unhallowed hand" I would hope, ventured to
open the choral or service book, resting upon its stand. It was wide,
thick, and ponderous: upon vellum: beautifully written and well executed in
every respect, with the exception of the illuminations which were extremely
indifferent. I ought to tell you that the doors of the churches, abroad,
are open at all times of the day: the ancient or more massive door, or
portal, is secured from shutting; but a temporary, small, shabby wooden
door, covered with dirty green baize, opening and shutting upon circular
hinges, just covers the vacuum left by the absence of the larger one.

Of the two ancient churches, above alluded to, that of _St. Gervais_, is
situated considerably to the north of where the _Boulevards Cauchoise_ and
_Bouvreuil_ meet. It was hard by this favourite spot, say the Norman
historians, that the ancient Dukes of Normandy built their country-houses:
considering it as a _lieu de plaisance._ Here too it was that the Conqueror
came to breathe his last--desiring to be conveyed thither, from his palace
in the city, for the benefit of the pure air.[58] I walked with M. Le
Prevost to this curious church: having before twice seen it. But the
_Crypt_ is the only thing worth talking about, on the score of antiquity.
The same accomplished guide bade me remark the extraordinary formation of
the capitals of the pillars: which, admitting some perversity of taste in a
rude, Norman, imitative artist, are decidedly of Roman chara