he shade of some large stones, and sent on a message before
us to the town. In quarter of an hour, however, some peals of thunder
roused us to pursue the journey; the strong wind that arose at the same
time was not good for ague patients. Across the great plain as we looked
back was a broad faint piece of rainbow, and the huge mountain, mantled
with clouds about his shoulders, but bright below, appeared peculiarly
fantastic, with flickering shadows of clouds chasing over his sunny
sides.

On the outskirts of Safed we found, as customary at that season,
(Bairam,) the newly white-washed graves of the Moslems, adorned with
bunches of myrtle.

At Safed we lodged in the house of a Russo-British Jew, and letters from
Jerusalem that had awaited us came safe to hand, after which followed the
necessary reception of visitors, very troublesome to weary and exhausted
travellers, and at last a supper which had been long in preparing--at
least so it seemed to be.

PART II.

This, like the journey last described, of six years before, was portion
of a much longer tour, but I omit all that cannot come under the
designation of a Byeway in Palestine. The two routes were very similar
to each other, with the exception of the passage from Banias to Safed.

Starting from Saida, and trending south-eastwards towards Hhasbeya, we
climbed the mountains, which here rise almost from the sea-shore, and
crossed romantic passes of rugged eminences and deeply cleft ravines.

From Hhasbeya the line was due south to Banias, thence westward by Tell
el Kadi, and Hhuneen, and Tibneen, the capital of the Belad Besharah,
thus almost reaching once more the plain of Phoenicia on its eastern
verge; next by the antiquities of Kadesh Naphtali southwards to Safed;
and homewards to Jerusalem, but this latter route is not to be described,
for the reason given above.

I was accompanied by my niece and another lady, a settled resident of
Jerusalem. The first object after quitting Saida was to visit Joon, and
to show my companions the residence of Lady Hester Stanhope in years gone
by. This we reached just before sunset, on the 2d of October 1855.

The tomb was found much dilapidated; in 1853 it was no longer in so good
a condition as it had been in 1849, but it was now even worse, and the
whole spectacle of house, stables, and gardens, was melancholy in the
extreme: the deprivation of roofs gives a peculiar aspect of desolation
to any abandoned dwelling,