e or fall of the
ground. Conversation flagged; but at length we struck up a Christmas
hymn to enliven us.

In the valley of Mar Saba we saw lights in the convent, but passed on.
Saw an Arab encampment, with fire and lights glimmering, where the dogs
came out to bark at us; another such in half an hour more; and a larger
camp in another half-hour, where men were discussing matters with much
vociferation in a cavern by a blazing fire; a scout called out, inquiring
if we were friends or foes?

The night grew very cold, and I should have been glad had my cloak not
been lost near Jericho. The temperature differed greatly from that of
the Dead Sea--a keen wind was in keeping with the end of December. The
stars were most brilliant: Venus richly lustrous; Sirius, dazzling; and
the huge Orion showing to best advantage. The road was alternately rough
in the valley, or over slippery ledges. At length, however, we got
cheered by coming to known objects. Passed Beer Eyoob, (En Rogel,) and
saw the battlemented walls of the Holy City sharply marked against the
sky.

The key had been left by the authorities at the city gate, to allow of
our admission; but the rusty lock required a long time for turning it,
and the heavy hinges of the large gate moved very slowly, at least so it
seemed in our impatience to reach home.

* * * * *

It is said above that I once spent a night at the 'Ain Merubba'--this was
on the occasion of an attempt, which ended in failure, to reach 'Ain Jidi
(En-gaddi) from the 'Ain Feshkah in the common way of travelling. {419}

Hhamdan, Shaikh of the Ta'amra, with about a dozen of his men, escorted
me and one kawwas in that direction. Instead of proceeding to Jericho or
Elisha's fountain, we turned aside into the wildest of wildernesses for
passing the night. Traversing the length of an extremely narrow ridge,
something like the back of a knife, we descended to a great depth below;
but the risk being judged too great for conveying the tent and bed over
there by the mule, these were left spread upon the ground for the night
under the canopy of heaven; while the men carried our food for us to make
the evening meal. Crawling or sliding, and leading the horses gently, we
got to the bottom, and then followed up a very narrow glen, winding in
and out, and round about between extraordinary precipices rising to
enormous heights, till all at once the men halted, shouted, and sang,