n the bright orb becoming
suddenly flattened on its lower curve reveals the exact horizon line; and
so it was this evening.

Wearied with the climbing position of the saddle, hour after hour, I
passed _'Ain Kesoor_ on foot, the 'Akal leading the horse. This was
shortly before 'Abeih, but there I rode up to the mansion of Kasim Bek,
the local governor, to ask hospitality; it was dark night, and Saturday.
My intention was to spend the Sunday in a Christian manner among the
American missionaries. The journey had been one of five hours and a half
from Bayroot.

We were heartily received into a fine old house, in which were shaikhs
and chiefs of sundry grades seated on the divan with the host, and
immediately the means for washing were brought by the domestics with
great respect. A good supper was prepared, the Bek eating with us, to my
surprise, but I afterwards learned that this is not uncommon with a
non-'Akal Druse, as he was.

_Sunday_.--Quiet morning. Bell of the Capuchin Convent almost adjoining
the house. From the windows there is a fine prospect of Bayroot and the
coast-outline.

After breakfast I went up to the chapel of the American missionaries, and
entered just as the Arabic service was about to commence--Dr de Forest in
the pulpit; and his sermon was preached with fluency of language equal to
that of a native. The subject was taken from 1 Cor. i. 12, 13,
concerning those who named themselves followers of Paul or of Apollos.
The women were screened off from the men in the congregation.

After service Dr de Forest welcomed me, and led me up the hill to the
mission-house, where I found my old friend, Dr Eli Smith, who was unwell,
and about to leave them on the morrow for his home at B'hamdoon. With
Mrs de Forest there was a young lady just arrived from the United States
to be a teacher in the school.

The residence is a good one; with the girls' school on the ground plan,
and the dwelling apartments above. The scenery and prospect equal all
that the highest imagination could conceive of the Lebanon. Over the
sea, the island of Cyprus can occasionally be distinguished from the
terrace, that is to say, three peaks of a mountain show themselves at
sunset, particularly if the wind be in the north, in the month of May or
the beginning of June. This view, therefore, gives the outskirts of "the
isles of Chittim," as seen from the Holy Land, (Num. xxiv. 24, and Jer.
ii. 10.)

After dinner we all went to