ad to dismount and rest for a time.

Our guide's account of the river differed from that given in Robinson;
instead of the stream being the Hhasbani and the bridge named El Ghujar,
he averred that the river is El Ghujar, and that it rises out of the
ground like the waters of Banias and of Tell el Kadi. Perhaps this may
account for Porter more recently placing the bridge El Ghujar in a
different situation, much farther north. The circumstance is not without
value in inquiries as to the collective formation of the Jordan.

As daylight broke we could see herds of buffaloes among the marshes, or
swimming in the water with only their heads raised above the surface; the
village of _Khalsah_ was half way up the hill-side.

From this point the road was level, dry, and comfortable, running due
southwards along the western margin of the plain, but with streams
occasionally crossing it, rushing from the hills towards the lake.

Near _'Ain el Mellahhah_ two Arabs rode up to us and planted their spears
in the ground near our horses heads as a warning to stop, and I suppose
to pay ghuf'r. I kept on, leaving the kawwas to parley with them.

Not far from the fountain we rested under a terebinth tree (not a
favourable specimen) upon a rising ground; beneath us, but at a short
distance, the strong stream turns a mill, passing through a house, and
escapes to the plain.

The Arabs met us again, and said they were looking for a horse that was
lost, and we saw no more of them.

In another hour my companion was taken with a strong fit of ague, which
urged us the more to press onward for Safed. From the hills, as we rose
higher and higher, the Lake Hhooleh was perceived to be, above one-third
of it, choked up with weeds and rushes. Old Hermon showed himself in
surpassing grandeur; not a confused mass--as he does from the plain
looking upwards from close beneath him--but as one grand "monarch of
mountains."

"On a throne of rocks, with a robe of clouds,
And a diadem of snow."

The sun was hot and the hills chalky over which we passed. In one place
by our wayside, and at considerable elevation, I found squared masonry
stones and traces of houses, with fragments of columns.

A poor Arab peasant, driving an ass laden with a wooden box, was groaning
with pain, and implored us for a draught of water, but I fear that our
people had neglected to bring any with them, as they expected to be so
soon in Safed.

Rested under t