ulberry can stand, is occupied. The people too, now nearly all
Christians, have a thrifty well-to-do look, and the children, thanks to
the energy of the American missionaries, are well taught."

This was in 1857, and the description corresponds to what I witnessed in
1853; but, alas! how great a change ensued in 1860. I must refrain,
however, from enlarging upon the melancholy tragedy that occurred there
during the insurrection of that memorable year.

First we went to Beteddeen, and witnessed the sad spectacle of the Ameer
Besheer's luxurious palace in a process of daily destruction by the
Turkish soldiery, who occupied it as a barrack. Accounts had been read
by me in Europe {405} of its size and costliness, but the description had
not exceeded the reality.

The officer in command gave us permission to be guided over the palatial
courts and chambers. We wandered through the Hhareem-rooms, and saw
baths of marble and gilding, sculptured inscriptions in the passages,
coloured mosaics in profusion on the floors, painted roofs, rich columns,
brass gates, carved doors, marble fountains, and basins with gold fish.
We entered the state reception room, and the old ameer's little business
divan, in a balcony commanding a view of the approaches in every
direction, of the meidan for equestrian practice, of the inner courts, of
the gardens below, and of a cascade of water rolling over lofty cliffs,
at the exact distance whence the sound came gently soothing the ear, and
from that spot also was obtained a distant view of the Mediterranean; not
omitting the advantage of witnessing every important movement that could
be made in the streets of Dair el Kamar, across the deep valley.

Beteddeen had been a truly princely establishment, but now adds one more
lesson to the many others of instability in human greatness. Fourteen
years before, it was all in its glory--the courts were thronged with
Druse and Maronite chiefs arrayed in cloth of gold, with soldiers, with
secretaries, with flatterers and suppliants; whereas now, before our
eyes, the dirty canaille of Turkish soldiers were tearing up marble
squares of pavement to chuck about for sport, doors were plucked down and
burned, even the lightning-rods were demolished, and every species of
devastation practised for passing away their idle time.

I shall not here describe the political movements that led to this great
reverse of fortune, or to the present condition of the family o