sun could not reach us till the day should
be considerably advanced, yet we were at a very high altitude. Pity that
we had no aneroid barometer with us to ascertain the amount of our
elevation above the sea. The poplar-trees and walnut-trees, with fruit
trees of various kinds, showed we were in a totally different region from
that of Jerusalem.
Jezzeen is almost exclusively a Christian village, with a Greek Catholic
church, besides two Maronite churches, and the small convent mentioned
above.
There were clergy walking about; the people cleanly and well clothed, the
children modestly behaved, and even when rendering a service, not asking
for bakhsheesh.
At the time of our leaving, a party of women were wailing over a dead
body under a tree.
The scene gradually became more romantic; and we soon came to a village,
if such it may be denominated, where the only dwellings are dispersed
among vineyards. These vineyards were, at that autumn season, becoming
of a brown and golden tint.
After traversing the wondrous chaos referred to in the former journey, we
passed through the villages of _Cuf'r Hooneh_ and _Deheedeh_, adjoining
each other; where there was abundance of water, and oleander bushes
fringing the streamlets, with poplar and maple trees.
The rest of the journey had no remarkable difference from that of 1849,
except that on the brow of the great descent to the plain, between
Lebanon and the Anti-Lebanon, we rested beneath an olive-tree entwined
with honeysuckle, enraptured with the magnificence of the scene, which
would require a Milton to portray it in words, or a Martin in painting.
I observed that the prevailing tints of the whole great prospect were of
russet and ochreous colours.
Crossed the bridge, charmed with the beauteous verdure and freshening
rapid stream of the Leontes river; and when arrived at Hhasbeya, repaired
to the house of the native Protestant pastor, (Mr John Wartabed,) till a
house could be prepared for us.
Next morning some deputations of the religious sects of the town called
upon me; also the Ameer Saad ed Deen and his five sons in rich dresses;
and lastly, an old Druse who had distinguished himself as a friend of the
Protestant movement. Among all these, my visit there had a beneficial
effect upon the existence and progress of native Protestantism. In the
Lebanon the Druses have always favoured the missionaries, their schools
and their chapels, while the native Christian
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