sliding section. For slitting, insert the cutter and stop on
the right side of the main stock and use either fence for a guide.

For a _chamfer_, insert the desired cutter, and tilt the rosewood
guides on the fences to the required angle. For _chamfer beading_ use
in the same manner, and gradually feed the cutter down by means of the
adjusting thumb-nut.

There are also a number of planelike tools such as the following:

The _spoke-shave_, Fig. 118, works on the same principle as a plane,
except that the guiding surface is very short. This adapts it to work
with curved outlines. It is a sort of regulated draw-shave. It is
sometimes made of iron with an adjustable mouth, which is a convenient
form for beginners to use, and is easy to sharpen. The _pattern-makers
spokeshave_, Fig. 119, which has a wooden frame, is better suited to
more careful work. The method of using the spokeshave is shown in Fig.
120. (See p. 100.)

[Illustration: Fig. 120. Using a Spokeshave.]

The _router-plane_, Figs. 121 and 122, is used to lower a certain part
of a surface and yet keep it parallel with the surrounding part, and
it is particularly useful in cutting panels, dadoes, and grooves. The
cutter has to be adjusted for each successive cut. Where there are a
number of dadoes to be cut of the same depth, it is wise not to finish
them one at a time, but to carry on the cutting of all together,
lowering the cutter after each round. In this way all the dadoes will
be finished at exactly the same depth.

[Illustration: Fig. 121. Router-Plane.]

The _dowel-pointer_, Fig. 123, is a convenient tool for removing the
sharp edges from the ends of dowel pins. It is held in a brace. The
cutter is adjustable and is removable for sharpening.

The _cornering tool_, Fig. 124, is a simple device for rounding sharp
corners. A cutter at each end cuts both ways so that it can be used
with the grain without changing the position of the work. The depth of
the cut is fixed.

[Illustration: Fig. 122. Using a Router-Plane.]

2. BORING TOOLS.

Some boring tools, like awls, force the material apart, and some, like
augers, remove material.

The _brad-awl_, Fig. 125, is wedge-shaped, and hence care needs to
be taken in using it to keep the edge across the grain so as to avoid
splitting the wood, especially thin wood. The size is indicated by the
length of the blade when new,--a stupid method. The awl is useful for
making small holes in soft wood, and it