ded the derivatives--

(4) Rib weave.
(5) Basket weave.

[Illustration: DIAGRAM OF FANCY KNIT GOODS]

These do not include the many fancy weaves, too numerous to classify,
and the open work weaves, made in the Leno loom, in which some of the
threads are crossed. Knit goods are made by the interlooping of a single
thread, by hand or on circular knitting machines and lace by an
analogous process, using several systems of threads. Felt is made up of
matted fibers of fur and wool and has no thread structure.

[Illustration: WEAVE DIAGRAMS]

[Sidenote: Plain Weave]

The plain weave is the most common, nearly all light weight goods being
thus woven. In plain weaving, each thread of both warp and filling
passes alternately over and under the threads at right angles. This
makes a comparatively open cloth, requiring the smallest amount of yarn
for the surface covered. This weave is used in nearly all cotton goods,
as in muslins, sheetings, calicoes, ginghams, and thin woolen goods.
Even in the plain weave variety is obtained by having some of the
threads larger than others, either in warp or filling or both, thus
producing stripes and checked effects.

[Illustration: SECTIONS OF WEAVES

_a_--Plain weave; _b_--Prunella twill; _c_--Cassimere twill;
_d_--Swansdown twill.]

[Sidenote: Twills]

After the plain weave the twill is the most common, being much used for
dress goods, suitings, etc., as well as some of the thicker cottons. In
this weave the intersections of the threads produce characteristic lines
diagonally across the fabric, most often at an angle of 45 deg.. The twill
may be hardly visible or very pronounced. The simplest twills are the
so-called "doeskin" and "prunella." In the doeskin the filling threads
pass over one and under two of the warp threads and in the prunella
twill over two and under one. The most common twill is the cassimere
twill in which both the warp and filling run over two and under two of
the threads at right angles.

[Illustration: DIAGRAM OF RIB AND BASKET WEAVE AND DOUBLE CLOTH]

[Sidenote: Uneven Twills]

A twill made by running both warp and filling under one and over three
threads is called a swansdown twill and the reverse is known as the crow
weave. In these the diagonal twilled effect is much more marked. Various
twills are often combined with each other and with plain weave, making a
great variety of texture. Numerous uneven twills are made, two over and
t