mania, and led to imitation in almost every country of Europe.
The convents turned out an immense quantity, thereby adding enormously
to the incomes of their establishments. It is assumed that it is to the
nuns of Italy we owe the succeeding elaboration of Reticella,
"Needlepoint," the long, placid hours spent in the quiet convent
gardens, lending themselves to the refinement and delicacy which this
exquisite fabric made necessary. However this may be, it is certain that
in a few years the rise and development of Needlepoint lace-making was
little short of phenomenal, and every convent was busy making it and
teaching their poorer lay sisters the art. Some of the wonderful Old
Point of this period is absolutely finer than the naked eye can see, a
powerful magnifying glass being necessary to discern how the marvellous
"toile" or "gimpe" is made.

[Illustration: ORIGINAL PATTERNS DESIGNED BY VINCIOLA.

Seventeenth Century.]

A little later, but still contemporary with the introduction of Venetian
lace, a Pillow lace was being made in Flanders, the origin of which
is not as yet discovered. It is possible that the fine flax thread grown
and manufactured there may, at the time of weaving, have suggested a
looser and more ornamental material, but that remains a matter of
conjecture. There must, however, have been an interchange of examples,
as about this time Pillow-made lace appeared in Italy, and led to the
making of the Milanese and Genoese varieties, and Needlepoint motifs
appeared amongst the woven network of Flanders.

Lace, under the name of "Lacis," had been known in France from the time
of Catherine de Medici, who patronised the manufacturers and used it
lavishly. About 1585 she induced Federico di Vinciolo, a lace-maker and
designer of Venice, to settle in France, and there the making of
Venetian lace was attempted. A mere slavish imitation of the Venetian
school resulted, and it was not until the age of the _Grande Monarque_,
Louis XIV., that French lace rivalled that of Venice.

Colbert, the great French Minister, becoming alarmed at the enormous
sums spent on Italian lace, determined to put a check to its
importation; and, by forbidding its use, establishing lace schools near
Alencon, and bribing Italian workers to come over as organisers and
teachers, started the manufacture of lace on an extensive scale, the
beautiful fabrics known as Point d'Alencon, Point d'Argentan, and Point
d'Argentella being the resul