have cost 2,400 livres.

The "Vraie Valenciennes" was practically indestructible, earning the
nickname of the "Eternal Valenciennes" from its durability. The
well-to-do bourgeoise used to invest her savings in real lace,
treasuring and wearing it on all best occasions for a lifetime.

The lace-makers of the town itself were so satisfied with their own lace
that they proudly boasted that if a length commenced in the town of
Valenciennes were taken and completed _by the same worker, and with the
same thread_, outside their own damp atmosphere, the exact point of
difference would be shown in the piece.

[Illustration: "OLD LILLE."

(_Author's Collection._)]

The earliest Valenciennes laces show a closer design than that made
later, which, by the way, many connoisseurs much prefer. The latter type
is of clearer ground and more open design. The flowers do not follow the
large scroll-like pattern of Flanders, but suggest the detached sprays
and festoons of Alencon and Argentan. In both types there is no cord
outlining either pattern or edge. All is flat as a piece of fine lawn.

_Lille._

By no means a _favourite_ lace at any time, Lille ranks next in merit as
a hand-made lace. The mesh is clearer and larger than most French or
Belgian laces, being made by the simple twisting of two threads on four
sides. The patterns are simple, and are outlined with a loose flax
thread of silky appearance. The straight edges which characterise Old
Lille lace certainly did not lend elegance to it. A large manufacture in
black lace was commenced, and the black silk mantles of the eighteenth
century were lavishly trimmed with it. It is entirely out of favour at
this day, however, only the finest white variety being sought after.

Lace is still manufactured at Lille, but the patterns of Mechlin are
copied, although the tiny square dots, one of the distinguishing points
of old Lille, are still used.

_Chantilly._

The white laces of Chantilly much resemble Lille, having the same fine,
clear ground and a thick, silky-looking thread outlining the pattern. A
little lace school was established by the Duchesse de Rohan early in
the seventeenth century, and for quite a hundred years white laces were
made, and became popular. Marie Antoinette used this pretty lace as well
as Valenciennes extensively to trim her favourite lawn dresses and
fichus when she and the ladies of her Court retired to the Petit Trianon
to play at being shepherdes