rm, chiefly used for border
laces.

_Fillings._--This word most easily explains the ordinary terms of
"modes" and "a jours." The inner parts of the pattern in Needlepoint and
Pillow lace are filled in with various ornamental stitches, showing an
amazing variety of design. By these fillings various laces may often be
distinguished, as each factory had its favourite "modes."

_Grounds._--There are two varieties of grounds, one made with Brides,
and the other either with Needlepoint or Pillow network. Other names
for these are "Reseaux" and "Fonds." The method of making Needlepoint or
woven ground often decides the date and class of the lace.

_Guipure._--Literally a _tape lace_. The name however is applied to all
Pillow laces having a tape-like design on them.

_Picots._--The little loops used to ornament a plain bride or tie.

[Illustration: VENETIAN ROSE POINT.

(_S.K.M. Collection._)]

III

THE LACES OF ITALY

[Illustration: VENETIAN ROSE POINT.

Seventeenth Century. (_Author's Collection._)]

III

THE LACES OF ITALY

_The Venetian Laces_

Venetian lace--"Rose Point"--"Point de Neige"--"Gros
Point"--"Punto Tagliato a Foliami"--The South Kensington
Collection.

Needlepoint lace is made with needle and thread and principally in
buttonhole stitches. A traced parchment pattern is procured, the outline
made with a solitary thread stitched down to the parchment at frequent
intervals. The thread is then worked over with fine buttonhole stitches;
the modes or fillings have a fine network of threads stretched across,
afterwards being buttonholed into a variety of designs. The edges are
then again worked upon with loops or picots, and in "Rose Point" tiny
stars or roses are worked on suitable parts of the design, sometimes the
"roses" or "stars" being three in numbers, one poised upon the other.
This is known as "Point de Neige" the whole surface of the lace being
literally sprinkled with tiny stars somewhat representing a fine
snowfall. The design is then connected with fine "brides," these in
their turn being dotted and purled with stars and loops. Most of this
exquisite lace requires a powerful magnifying-glass to discern the
intricacy of the work.

The finest lace of this variety was produced in the sixteenth century,
the designs being bold, handsome, and purely Renaissance in type. That
of the Louis Quatorze period shows the personal influence of his reign,
frequently ha