k
the finer the modelling of the figures. In the figures of the St.
Cuthbert and the Worcester fragments the proportions of the figures are
exquisite; at a later date, while the work is just as excellent, the
figures become unnatural, the heads being unduly large, the eyes
staring, and the perspective entirely out of drawing. Until the
fourteenth century this comes so gradually as to be scarcely noted; but
after and through the fifteenth century this becomes so marked as to be
almost grotesque, and only the genuine religious fervour with which
these poor remnants have been worked prevents many of them being
ridiculous. The faces gradually show less careful drawing and working,
and the figures become squat and topheavy. The emblems of the saints are
often omitted.

[Illustration: THE "NEVIL" ALTAR FRONTAL.

(_S.K.M. Collection._)]

This decline in the embroiderer's art is specially noticeable in an
extraordinary panel to be seen at South Kensington Museum, where an
altar-frontal of stamped crimson velvet is appliqued in groups of
figures in gold, silver, and silks. In the middle is the Crucifixion,
with the Virgin and St. John standing on a strip covered with flowers.
On the left is Ralph Nevil, fourth Earl of Westmoreland, 1523, kneeling,
and behind him his seven sons. On the right is Lady Catherine Stafford,
his wife, also kneeling, and behind her kneel her thirteen daughters.
The frontal cost the museum L50 and is well worth it as an historical
document. Other important embroideries of the period to be found in
England are at Cirencester Cathedral, Ely Cathedral, Salisbury and
Carlisle Cathedrals, Chipping Norton and Little Dean in Gloucestershire,
East Langdon in Kent, Buckland and Stourton in Worcester, Littleworth in
Leicestershire, Lynn in Norfolk, and the Parish Church at Warrington.

Many of the palls belonging to the great city companies belong to this
date. The Saddlers' Company's pall is of crimson velvet embroidered with
angels surrounding "I.H.S.," and arms of the Company. The Fishmongers'
Pall, made at the end of the fifteenth century, has at one end the
figure of St. Peter (the patron saint of fishermen) enthroned, and
angels on either side, and at the other end St. Peter receiving the keys
from our Lord. The Vintners' Pall is made of Italian velvet and cloth of
gold and embroidered with St. Martin of Tours.

Religious influence characterised the embroideries of England
practically from the ninth to