narrower and finer lace.

The principal designs for the Venetian lace of all periods were scrolls
of flowers conventionalised in the Renaissance taste of the time. The
generic name for all laces of the finest period is "Punto tagliato a
foliami." The laces of this time are now almost priceless. They are
genuine works of art, worked slowly and patiently under the clear light
of the Italian skies by women who were naturally artistic and beauty
loving, and who, while working the shining needle and fairy thread in
and out of the intricacies of the design sang the pretty "Lace Songs"
which may be heard at the Burano Lace School even now, although 200 or
300 years old. Many specimens of this exquisite lace are to be found in
the South Kensington Museum, where the flounce given by Mrs. Bolckow at
once explains the whole scheme of Venetian lace-making.

Such lace is not to be purchased now except at great price. The piece
illustrated, see page 55, was only 1-1/8 yards in length, and was sold
for L145 by one of our leading lacemen. Barely 5 yards of Venetian lace,
only 2 inches wide and _in rags_, was sold at Debenham & Storr's in
August, 1907, for L60; and even the smallest collar or a pair of cuffs
runs well into L10.

Even in the days of its manufacture this lace commanded high prices. In
the inventory of Queen Elizabeth's gowns we find such entries as--

"To 1 yard Double Italian Cut-worke, 1/4 yd. wide. 55/4.

" 3 yds. broad needlework lace of Italy, with purls. 50/- per yd."

James II. paid L29 for a cravat.

[Illustration: VERY FINE EXAMPLE OF "GROS POINT DE VENISE."]

IV

THE LACES OF GENOA AND MILAN

[Illustration: LOUIS XIII. OF FRANCE, SHOWING VANDYKE LACE COLLAR AND
NARROWER LACE ON SCARF.]

IV

THE LACES OF GENOA AND MILAN

Argentella wrongly called Italian--Genoese--Mixed
laces--Milanese--Macrame.

These are mostly Pillow laces, but fine Point laces were also
manufactured in these towns. In the first-named town it is said that the
lace called "Argentella" was made, but this is extremely doubtful, most
authorities arguing that it was certainly a French lace made at the best
period.

A very representative lace of Genoa is known as collar lace, very widely
used for the falling collars of the Vandyke period. It was an
exceedingly beautiful and decorative lace, and almost indestructible.
Specimens of this lace can even now easily be secured at a fair price.
The laces know