cent sway and far-reaching influence. In the illustration, page
55, an especially fine specimen of the lace, Madame de Montespan is seen
seated under the crown, two small Indians are on either side; a tree
bearing flags and trophies completes this tribute to the genius of the
lace-makers and the splendour of the Court.

[Illustration: "POINT DE FRANCE."

(_The property of Lady Kenmare._)]

[Illustration: POINT D'ALENCON.

(_Author's Collection._)]

The name "Point de France" is given to all lace made from its
commencement by Colbert's direction until about 1678, when the
lace-workers, perhaps forgetting the traditions of the Venetian school,
developed a style of their own and the work became more distinctly
French, being more delicate, finer in substance, the patterns clearer
and more defined. The importation also of the finer flax thread from
Flanders brought the more exquisite Pillow lace of Brussels to the
notice of the French lace-workers. The French, as a nation, have always
been foremost in seizing upon new ideas and adapting them to their own
artistic requirements. In this instance the result was admirable, and it
gave to the world, not the finest lace, as it was impossible to surpass
the earliest Venetian Point laces, but certainly the next lace in order
of merit, "Point d'Alencon." The chief characteristic of the lace is the
fine, clear ground, the stiff Cordonnet outlining the pattern, and the
exquisite patterns in the "jours" or fillings.

The cordonnet of Alencon is the only one which has horsehair for its
foundation. A strand of hair is carefully stitched down to the edges and
is buttonholed over with the finest thread, and is said, although giving
the lace quite a character of its own, to have been the cause of much of
its destruction, as, in washing, the hair contracts and curls. It will
be noticed also that the ground is worked in strips, _shortways of the
lace of less than an inch in length_, afterwards being stitched together
in what is known as "fine joining." So elaborate was the original Point
d'Alencon that no less than eighteen workers were engaged on one single
piece. Later the number was reduced to twelve, when the patterns became
less ornate.

Although the factory of Alencon existed well into the early nineteenth
century, the style of lace gradually deteriorated, until it is now
non-existent! The lace made during the long reign of Louis XIV. is
considered by far the finest and best, sho