thor's Collection._)]

V

THE LACES OF FRANCE

[Illustration: "CUT-WORKE."]

[Illustration: LACIS.]

[Illustration: OLD ITALIAN AND FRENCH CUT AND DRAWN WORK AND "LACIS."

(_Author's Collection._)]

V

THE LACES OF FRANCE

_The Needlepoint Laces of France_

Catherine de Medici's collection of "Lacis"--Establishment of
lace-making by Colbert--"Point de France"--"Point
d'Alencon"--"Point d'Argentan"--Modern reproduction of these at
Burano, Italy.

France in the sixteenth century, as always, led the van of fashion. Lace
appears to have been extensively used long before its apotheosis at the
Court of Louis le Grand, otherwise Louis XIV. Catherine de Medici
patronised the manufacture of "_Lacis_," which was merely darned
netting, more or less fine. At this time "Lacis" and "Cut-worke" were
practically all that was known or used. Bed-hangings, curtains, and
furniture-coverings were covered with alternate squares of lacis and
cutwork. Afterwards the Reticella laces of Italy were imported and had
an immense vogue, but it was not until the artistically glorious time of
Louis XIV. that an attempt was made to encourage a manufacture of French
laces.

Colbert, the astute Minister of Louis XIV., became alarmed at the
immense sums of money which went out of the country to purchase the
laces of Venice, and, by means of bribing the best workers of the
Venetian schools, he induced them to settle at L'Onray, near Alencon. In
1665 he had so far succeeded that lace rivalling that of Venice was
being produced. The Venetians became alarmed in their turn (as, indeed,
they had need to be) and issued an edict, ordering the lace-workers to
return forthwith, or, failing this, the nearest relative would be
imprisoned for life, and steps would be taken to have the truant
lace-worker _killed_. If, however, he or she returned, complete
forgiveness would be extended, and work found them _for life_ at
handsome remuneration. History does not tell us the result of this
decree, but it evidently failed to destroy the lace manufacture of
France.

At first the lace manufactured at Alencon received the name of "Point de
France," and was absolutely indistinguishable from that of Venice. Its
magnificence of design, indeed, may be said to have exceeded anything
before attempted. The introduction of tiny figures was attributable to
the overwhelming personality of Louis XIV., and was symbolical of his
magnifi