plers just as exquisite cut-work, and its
natural successor Reticella, or "punto in aria" is shown, as in the
finest examples of the Venetian schools. Unfortunately, however, English
fine lace-making came to a sudden and inexplicable end, although we know
that any quantity of fine Venetian, exquisite Brussels, or Flemish
laces, and the wonderful Point de France were being imported into the
country and lavishly used.

As early as the reign of Edward IV. lace was mentioned as being
prohibited for importation amongst other items of feminine luxury, such
as "ribans, fringes of silk and cotton," but it is considered that the
word "laces" here means only the twisted threads that go to make up a
lace or tie, commonly ending in tags or points. It must be allowed,
however, that laces, or more probably "gimps" of gold and silver threads
were used for trimming both lay and ecclesiastical garments, and in
Henry VII.'s reign we find that importation of Venetian lace was
permitted, but this is generally admitted still to refer to gold and
silver lace, more probably coming from Genoa.

It was not really until the time of bluff King Hal that lace became an
article of fashion, when during the life of the last of his unfortunate
queens he permits "the importation of all manner of gold and silver
fringes, or _otherwise_, with all new 'gentillesses' of what facyion or
value, for the pleasure of our dearest wyeff the Queen."

Henry himself also began to indulge in all these little elegances of
fashion, and wore his sleeves embroidered with cutwork, and
handkerchiefs edged with gold and silver, treating himself liberally to
"coverpanes" and "shaving-cloths" trimmed with gold lace.

[Illustration: EDMUND SPENSER: COLLAR TRIMMED WITH RETICELLA.

Early period.]

Little mention of white work was made in the inventories of Henry VIII.
or his Queens, but Cardinal Wolsey seems to have had more than his
share of cutwork embroideries, judging from contemporary portraits.

In Queen Mary's reign white work began to be more frequently spoken of,
and in 1556 it is stated that Lady Jane Seymour presented the Queen with
"a smock of fair white work, Flanders making."

It was not until Queen Elizabeth's time that lace became freely
mentioned; then suddenly we are introduced to an endless variety of lace
and trimmings, both of gold and silver, pearl and embroideries, and
various white work! In some of the old Chronicles mention was made of
drawn work