can country tavern. A good
hotel is a prime necessity to any city, and is of more importance to the
interests of the inhabitants at large, and to its trades-people
especially, than is generally realized. We were told by our banker and
others that the complaint in this matter was so general that a company
was forming to give to the city a first-class hotel on the American
system, a consummation devoutly to be wished. At present tourists
visiting Calcutta would be prompted, as we were, to abbreviate their
stay in the city, solely for want of a good temporary home.
Calcutta is a very interesting city, very Indian, notwithstanding so
many Europeans live here and it has so long been under English rule; but
it is by no means entitled to the name so often given to it, the "City
of Palaces." It is quite modern, having no remains of antiquity in or
about it, and in 1686 was but a mud village. As seen from the Hoogly
when one first lands, it has a strong array of fine public buildings;
but a passage of a few rods, diverging from the main thoroughfare,
brings the visitor upon the dirty streets, the mean and narrow houses,
and general filth of the native population. The city is strongly
individualized, and it may be remarked that of all the capitals thus far
visited no two are alike, or strongly resemble each other. All differ
radically in manners and customs, modes of conveyance, dress,
architecture, and local color. We visited some of the palaces of the
native princes, which show in what extravagant style they formerly
lived, until compelled to come under English control. Many of these
structures were partially denuded, and none pretended to be kept up to
their former standard.
The National Museum is an institution of great importance, rich in its
various specimens of Hindoo curiosities, and also in the possession of
an extensive zoological and mineralogical collection, the whole
contained in a noble building of modern construction. The city has also
a number of literary, scientific, and charitable institutions,
libraries, social and political clubs, hospitals, and the like. The
Government House is a fine specimen of architecture, and is built around
an open square ornamented like a garden, but really little less than a
citadel if necessity should require it to assume that form. Owing to the
nature of England's possession here, Government House is under
semi-military organization, always ready to meet a popular uprising, and
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