good
friends of the natives, who were originally opposed to the laying of
railroad tracks; indeed, so bitter and superstitious were they, that for
a long time it was necessary to guard the track by a military force,
especially in these very districts of central India. It was amusing to
watch the expression upon the countenances of some of these pilgrims,
who stood on the platform of the depot, watching the hissing steam as it
came from the engine. In their intense ignorance and superstition they
believe that it contains a "fire-devil," and that it is bribed to do the
required work of transportation by frequent drinks of water at the
various stations! It was difficult for the more intelligent to suppress
their prejudices against the introduction of the railroad into India
when it was first begun; but the ignorant, superstitious masses are
still believers in the supernatural character of the iron horse. No
amount of explanation can disabuse their minds of the impression; they
only shake their heads; but getting into the third class compartments
avail themselves of the facilities all the same, even when bent, as they
all are who travel, upon some devout pilgrimage.

Benares, the first large city on the united Ganges and Jumna, may be
called the citadel of Hindooism, containing about one hundred and fifty
thousand fixed inhabitants, and nearly as many more of floating
population, composed of pilgrims, constantly coming and going. What
Jerusalem is to the Jew, Rome to the Latin, Mecca to the Mohammedan,
Benares is to the Hindoo. It is supposed by many to be the oldest known
habitation of man in the world. Twenty-five centuries ago when Rome was
unknown and Athens was in its youth, Benares was already famous. It is
supported by the influx of rich and poor pilgrims from all parts of the
country, whose presence gives its local trade an impetus, at certain
seasons of great amount, and more or less at all times. The city is
situated on the left bank of the sacred Ganges, to bathe in which
insures to the devout Hindoo forgiveness of all sins, and an easy
passport to the regions of the blessed. In entering the ancient capital
we crossed the Ganges on a bridge of boats very similar to that at
Cologne on the Rhine. As we drove through the streets troops of
pilgrims, pitiable to behold, foot-sore and weary, were met coming from
the Punjab a thousand miles away, simply to bow down before the local
idols and to dip their bodies in the h