ems of frosted silver
flaked with gold, while close at hand were seen the hundreds of thrifty
tea plantations decking the sloping hill-sides. There are no roads at
these extreme heights; it is all climbing to reach them, and the path so
narrow that visitors advance only in single file.
Darjeeling is what is called in India a sanitarium; that is, a resort
for Europeans from the plains during that portion of the year when it is
too hot to reside in the cities. There is a fixed population of over
three thousand. The viceroy's summer quarters are elegant and spacious,
and there are churches, schools, and a club-room, with hospitals and
barracks for army invalids. We saw groups of natives from the
neighboring countries, lingering about the depot, quite willing to
trade, and offering us their praying machines for filthy lucre. Some of
these machines were of finely wrought silver and were expensive. In the
centre of the town there is an open space devoted daily to an out-door
bazar, where the itinerant traders spread a mat upon the ground and
cover it with the articles which they wish to dispose of, seating
themselves cross-legged on the ground by the side of their wares. Here
we saw displayed copper coins from the neighboring countries,
sweetmeats, fruit, beans, rice, betel-nuts, candles, baskets, and toys,
besides heaps of various grains. Near the hotel there was an
insignificant temple, at the entrance of which a hideous old woman was
turning a big cylinder with a crank; a church praying machine. She
seemed to have taken a contract to pray for the whole district, she
worked so vigorously.
Some of the people in and about the neighborhood are of singular
interest. One tribe was pointed out as belonging to the Sikkim race,
known as Lepchas, who believe in spirits good and bad, but celebrate no
religious rites. There were specimens of the Limboos, who are Buddhists,
and whose out-door temple on the hill-top we had chanced upon. Again
there were people known as Moormis, of large stature and originally from
Tibet. The Nepal and Cashmere people were, small in size, compared to
Europeans, but of hardy frames and stout limbs. These latter are very
industrious and thrifty. There was some building of stone houses going
on at Darjeeling, and some road making in the town; and it was observed
that all carrying of stone, mortar, or other material, was performed by
Cashmere or Nepal girls and women, who carry baskets of stone on their
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