ourselves, seen the ashes of the cremated corpses cast into
it, and have observed the frequent dead bodies floating therein. One
would think a single glance at the yellow, filthy hue of the water would
be sufficient to debar its use; but the very name of the Ganges
sanctifies everything with these mentally blind creatures. Sometimes,
though this is not a frequent occurrence, a crocodile takes away a
bather; but such persons are rather envied than regretted, since to die
in those waters is in their estimation simply to be at once wafted to
the elysian fields of paradise.

All this fanaticism, mad zeal, and credulous idolatry could not alone
sustain and support a city like Benares, though it attracts millions of
pilgrims annually. There must be some reasonable nucleus to form about,
some occupation and industry with the semblance of common sense,
something besides priestly art and cunning. Therefore, looking about us
we find in her bazars the skilled product of real artisans, in the form
of brass ware of such admirable finish as to monopolize the markets of
the world in this line. And again, there is produced in her dark alleys
and dirty lanes an article of silver gilt embroidery of unequaled
excellence. Specimens of these remarkable local products are sure to be
brought away by appreciative travelers, while the local demand from rich
natives is very large in the aggregate. So there are many homes in this
strange, idolatrous, dirty, Indian Mecca, which are supported, after
all, by legitimate industry.

A bird's-eye view of the city and its environs was enjoyed by ascending
to the top of the lofty minaret crowning the great Mosque of Aurungzebe,
so high, that not a street or roadway could be detected by the eye in
all the densely populated city. The town below appeared like one dense
mass of houses, recalling the view of Milan from the pinnacle of its
famous cathedral; but the streets of Benares are so narrow that it is
hardly surprising to find them undistinguishable from so great a height.
The palace of the Maharajah of Vizianagram was also visited, a
well-appointed and elegant residence, where were to be seen some fine
engravings upon the walls, representing American historical scenes, and
especially an admirable portrait of Washington. An ancient observatory
was of more than ordinary interest to us, erected by a famous Hindoo
patron of science, Rajah Manu. Though now quite neglected and in partial
ruins, a sun-dial, a