d in rice, wheat, sugar-cane, and vast poppy
fields,--treacherously beautiful,--from which the opium of commerce is
derived. The presence of such abundance made the contrast in the
condition of the peasantry all the more puzzling.

This part of India has ever been noted for the excellence and prolific
yield of its sugar crops. From here, also, indigo and saltpetre are
exported in large quantities. No tea-gardens were seen,--these were left
behind in the hills,--nor had we met with coffee plantations since
leaving Ceylon. All along the route we saw fruit trees in considerable
variety, of such as are indigenous to central India; among these were
recognized the lofty and handsome tamarinds, almonds, mangoes, oranges,
and limes, interspersed with which was the graceful palm, laden with
cocoanuts, and other products of the palm family. Temples centuries in
age and in utter ruin came into view now and again, as they had done in
the south, between Tuticorin and Madras, and here, as there, they were
frequently adjacent to a cluster of low mud hovels. From the branches of
the trees flitted birds of such fantastic shapes and plumage as to cause
exclamations of surprise. Occasional specimens of the bird of paradise
were seen, with its long and graceful tail-feathers glistening in the
sun, presenting an array of bright colors never seen in confinement. The
tall flamingos, in their bridal plumage, just touched with scarlet on
either wing, like soldiers' epaulets, floated along the shores of the
numerous ponds, scarcely clearing the ground, or they stood lazily by
the bank upon one awkward leg. Parrots glanced across the vision in the
bright noontide, in carnival costume; and buff-colored doves, with white
rings about their necks, coquetted lovingly in couples. Of song birds
there were but few, though the clear notes of the little Indian thrush
now and then fell pleasantly on the ear.

As we progressed on our way, we picked up here and there, at various
stations, third class passengers in considerable numbers, consisting
oftentimes of whole families, in singular variety of dress, "undress,"
and rags, bound for Benares. They were packed in the rude cars devoted
to that class, like cattle, and there they slept and ate upon the rough
pine boarding. The roads of India carry these devout people at a most
trifling charge, aggregating but about a half penny per mile. And yet we
were told that it paid the companies very well, besides making