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them after a fashion ludicrously human. Adjoining the temple is a large
water tank in which the monkeys are fond of bathing, their pranks in the
water affording much amusement.

It is difficult to realize the mental degradation of a people controlled
by a frame of mind leading them to worship these creatures; and it is
equally ludicrous to recall the fact, in this connection, that the
Japanese eat them. The hollow trunk of a venerable tamarind-tree was
shown where all the baby monkeys are born. About the doors of this
temple sat women with baskets of yellow marigold blossoms, to sell to
native visitors for decorating purposes at the altar. Great use is made
of this flower, which seems to be raised in large quantities for this
object. Once or twice we saw these women sell a handful for a halfpenny;
but it must be a sorry trade whereby to earn a living. Pigeons swarm in
and about Benares enjoying a superstitious veneration and protection;
while sacred bulls obstruct the passages, and the narrow, nauseous,
over-crowded streets, rendering them too filthy for foot passage.
Everything appears to be in a state of chronic decay; and as the city
flourished twelve hundred years before Christ,--indeed may be said to
have been at the zenith of its glory at that period,--it is not
surprising that it should be in a tumble-down condition in our day. This
very dilapidation, however, renders the river front one of the most
picturesque sights imaginable. Being a British possession, there is a
European quarter of the town, quite modern in aspect, ornamented with
large and fine public structures, churches, post-office, and government
buildings, besides some charming private residences or bungalows. But
the native portion, always crowded with sacred animals, beggars, curs,
and filth of every sort, seemed a very hot-bed for pestilence. In most
of the native huts the light of the sun can never penetrate, and
compared to them underground dungeons would be desirable residences. Our
local guide told us there were over two thousand public temples and
shrines in Benares, and he might have added in every stage of dirt,
decomposition, and ruin. The sights to be witnessed in them were most
repulsive, and yet there were some sincere votaries there. There were
rogues also, a fact proven by the circumstance that the guide, native
and resident here, had his pocket picked before the altar while
explaining matters to our party.

As a fine characteris