Sahib. It forms a
beautiful white marble figure of an angel, with folded wings and
palm-laden hands, the eyes cast downward upon the now covered well. The
ground surrounding the spot is inclosed by an iron rail, and beautified
with lovely flowers, carefully tended. Already familiar with the detail
of the tragic deeds enacted in this place, the locality was necessarily
impressive, and notably that of the Suttee-chowra Ghat, where the final
scene of the Cawnpore massacre took place.
It was a sombre, cloudy day, and some rain fell while we were driving
about the extensive grounds of the English cantonment. The influence of
the sad story which these monuments commemorate, the funereal aspect of
the spot, the gloomy, leaden, weeping sky above us, all served to
heighten the effect of the dark story of crime and blood which our guide
rehearsed to us. In its palmy days, before the mutiny, two cavalry
regiments and three of infantry were stationed here. To use the words of
Mr. Lee: "The place was full of officers' wives, children, and pretty
women. Private theatricals were given twice weekly, balls as often, and
picnics and dinners constantly." It must have been a round of holidays
which the English residents enjoyed, while they vied with each other in
their mutual hospitalities. Alas! what a volcano they were sleeping
upon; and when it burst and the hidden fire poured forth, what rivers of
blood were shed from the veins of the innocent and helpless victims!
We refer to events only too well known to the world, and which do not
require any rehearsal in these pages. A very complete system of barracks
is established here by the English government, and the three arms of the
service are fully represented by well organized European troops. The
cantonment extends some five or six miles along the river, the whole as
level as a billiard-table. The present masters of the country learned
too bitter a lesson from the natives to ever again trust them with any
military power. Formerly the English army in India was composed of as
many, or more, native troops than of those purely English, and they were
drilled and taught in the use of all arms. Now the native regiments
which are organized are scattered about the country and placed on
outpost duty, or colonial service elsewhere, but only as infantry; they
will not again be intrusted with artillery. They are looked upon as
performing the police duty of the army rather than as constituting a
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