gue knew about as much German as I did Chinese--hardly
three or four words. I therefore signified to him that I did not
require his services, in spite of which he held out his hand,
begging for money.

13th August. I left Arax betimes in the morning, in company with a
customs' officer, and rode to the town of Natschivan, which lies in
a large valley, surrounded by the lofty mountains of Ararat. The
country here is fertile, but there are very few trees.

I never had so much trouble to obtain shelter in any place as in
this. I had two letters, one to a German physician, the other to
the governor. I did not wish to go to the latter in my travelling
dress, as I was again among cultivated people, who are accustomed to
judge of you by your dress, and there was no inn. I therefore
intended to ask accommodation in the doctor's house. I showed the
address, which was written in the native language, to several people
to read, that they might point out the house to me; but they all
shook their heads, and let me go on. At last I came to the custom-
house, where my little luggage was immediately taken possession of,
and myself conducted to the inspector. He spoke a little German,
but paid no regard to my request. He told me to go into the custom-
house, and unlock my portmanteau.

The inspector's wife and sister accompanied me. I was much
astonished at this politeness, but found, however, too soon that
other reasons had induced them to come--both the ladies wished to
see what I had brought with me. They had chairs brought, and took
their places before my portmanteau, which was opened, when three
pair of hands were thrust in. A number of papers folded together,
coins, dried flowers, and other objects, obtained from Nineveh, were
instantly seized hold of, and thrown about; every ribbon, every cap,
was taken out; and it was clearly perceptible that the inspector's
wife had some difficulty in parting with them again.

After this was sufficiently examined, a common box, which contained
my greatest treasure, a small relief from Nineveh, was brought
forward. One of the men took hold of a heavy wooden axe, for the
purpose of striking off the lid. This was rather too much for me,
and I would not allow it. To my great satisfaction, a German woman
came in just at this moment. I told her what was in the box, and
that I did not object to its being opened, although I wished them to
do it carefully with a chisel and pincers; b