The distance is 420
miles. The ship belonged to the Russian government, it was named
Odessa, was of 260 horse power, and was handsome, clean, and neat.
In order that my parting with my dear friends, the Russians, might
not be too much regretted, one of them was so good at the end of the
passage as to behave in a manner that was far from polite. During
the last night which was very mild and warm, I went out of the close
cabin on to the deck, and placed myself not far from the compass-
box, where I soon began to sleep, wrapt in my mantle. One of the
sailors came, and giving me a kick with his foot, told me to leave
the place. I thanked him quietly for the delicate way in which he
expressed himself, and requesting him to leave me at peace,
continued to sleep.
Among the passengers were six English sailors, who had taken a new
ship to Odessa, and were returning home. I spoke with them several
times, and had soon quite won them. As they perceived that I was
without any companion, they asked me if I spoke enough Turkish to be
able to get what I wanted from the ship's people and porters. On my
answering that I did, they offered to manage everything for me if I
would go on shore with them. I willingly accepted their offer.
As we approached land a customs' officer came on board to examine
our luggage. In order to avoid delay I gave him some money. When
we landed I wanted to pay, but the English sailors would not allow
it; they said I had paid for the customs' officer, and it was
therefore their time to pay for the boat. I saw that I should only
have affronted them if I had pressed them further to receive the
money. They settled with the porter for me, and we parted good
friends. How different was the behaviour of these English sailors
from that of the three well-bred Russian gentlemen at Jalta!
The passage into the Bosphorus, as well as the objects of interest
in Constantinople, I have already described in my journey to the
Holy Land. I went immediately to my good friend Mrs. Balbiani; but,
to my regret, found that she was not in Constantinople; she had
given up her hotel. I was recommended to the hotel "Aux Quatre
Nations," kept by Madame Prust. She was a talkative French woman,
who was always singing the praises of her housekeeping, servants,
cookery, etc., in which, however, none of the travellers agreed with
her. She charged forty piasters (8s.), and put down a good round
sum in the bill for servants
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