r came from the
commandant to take me under cover. I was much surprised and pleased
at this politeness, but I was soon undeceived when I was led into
the large sailors' cabin. The people smelt horribly of brandy, and
some of them had evidently taken too much. I hastened back on to
the deck, where, in spite of the raging of the elements, I felt more
comfortable than among these well-bred Christians.

In the course of the day we stopped at Bambur, Pizunta, Gagri,
Adlar, and other places. Near Bambur I observed majestic groups of
rocks.

20th September. The Caucasian mountains were now out of sight, and
the thick woods were also succeeded by wide open spaces. We were
still troubled with wind, storm, and rain.

The engineer of the ship, an Englishman, Mr. Platt, had accidentally
heard of my journey (perhaps from my passport, which I had to give
up on entering the ship); he introduced himself to me today, and
offered me the use of his cabin during the day-time; he also spoke
to one of the officers for me, and succeeded in obtaining a cabin
for me, which, although it joined the sailors' cabin, was separated
from it by a door. I was very thankful to both the gentlemen for
their kindness, which was the greater, as the preference was given
to me, a stranger, over the Russian officers, of whom at least half
a dozen were on deck.

We remained a long time at Sissasse. This is an important station;
there is a fine fortress upon a hill--round it stand pretty wooden
houses.

21st September. This was a terrible night! One of the sailors, who
was healthy and well the day before, and had taken his supper with a
good appetite, was suddenly attacked with cholera. The cries of the
poor fellow disturbed me greatly, and I went upon deck, but the
heavy rain and piercing cold were not less terrible. I had nothing
but my mantle, which was soon wet through; my teeth chattered; the
frost made me shake throughout; so there was nothing to be done but
to go below again--to stop my ears, and remain close to the dying
man. He was, in spite of all help, a corpse before the end of eight
hours. The dead body was landed in the morning, at Bschada; it was
packed in a heap of sail-cloth, and kept secret from the travellers.
The cabin was thoroughly washed with vinegar, and scoured, and no
one else was attacked.

I did not at all wonder that there was sickness on board, only I had
expected it would be among the poor soldiers, who were d