ort signed, and to request admittance to the ship.
Government steamers ply twice every month, on the 1st and 15th, from
Redutkale to Odessa, by way of Kertsch. Sailing vessels rarely
offer an opportunity of passage. These steamers always keep close
into the coast; they touch at eighteen stations (fortresses and
military posts), carry military transports of all kinds, and convey
all passengers free. Travellers must, however, be content with a
deck place: the cabins are few, and belong to the crew and higher
officers, who frequently travel from one station to another. No
places can be had by paying for them.

The commandant prepared my passport and ticket directly. I cannot
avoid remarking in this place that the prolixity of writing by the
Russian government officials far exceeds that of the Austrians,
which I had formerly considered impossible. Instead of a simple
signature, I received a large written sheet, of which several copies
were taken, the whole ceremony occupying more than half an hour.

The steamer did not arrive until the 5th (Russian calendar).
Nothing is more tedious than to wait from hour to hour for a
conveyance, especially when it is necessary, in addition, to be
ready to start at any moment. Every morning I packed up. I did not
venture to cook a fowl or anything else, for fear I should be called
away from it as soon as ready; and it was not until the evening that
I felt a little safer, and could walk out a little.

From what I could see of the neighbourhood of Redutkale and
Mingrelia altogether, the country is plentifully furnished with
hills and mountains, large valleys lie between, and the whole are
covered with rich woods. The air is on that account moist and
unhealthy, and it rains very frequently. The rising sun draws up
such dense vapours, that they float like impenetrable clouds, four
or five feet above the earth. These vapours are said to be the
cause of many diseases, especially fever and dropsy. In addition to
this, the people are so foolish as to build their houses in among
the bushes and under thick trees, instead of in open, airy, and
sunny places. Villages are frequently passed, and scarcely a house
is to be seen. The men are remarkably idle and stupid; they are
tawny and lean. The natives seldom reach the age of sixty; and it
is said that the climate is even more unhealthy for strangers.

Still I believe that much might be done in this country by
industrious settlers a