ed Tiflis. The road was, as everywhere else, full
of holes, ruts and stones. I was obliged always to tie a
handkerchief tightly round my head, to ease the jolting; and still,
I was every day attacked with headache. Today, however, I learnt
the full nuisance of these carriages. It had rained, not only
during the whole night, but still continued so. The wheels threw up
such masses of mud, that I soon sat in a thick puddle, I was covered
even over the head, and my face did not escape. Small boards
hanging over the wheels would have easily remedied this
inconvenience; but none trouble themselves in this country about the
comfort of travellers.

Tiflis comes in sight during the latter half of the stage. The
prospect of the town charmed me much; as, with the exception of a
few church towers, it was built in the European style; and, since
Valparaiso, I had not seen any town resembling the European. Tiflis
contains 50,000 inhabitants, it is the capital of Georgia, {309} and
is situated tolerably near the mountains. Many of the houses are
built on hills, on high steep rocks. From some of the hills there
is a beautiful view of the town and valley. The latter, at the time
of my visit, was not very attractive, as the harvest had deprived it
of all the charms of colour; there were also but few gardens, etc.
On the other hand, the river Kurry (generally called Cyrus) winds in
graceful curves through the town and valley, and in the far distance
sparkle the snow-crowned summits of the Caucasus. A strong citadel,
Naraklea, is situated upon steep rocks, immediately before the town.

The houses are large, and tastefully ornamented with facades and
columns, and covered with sheet iron or bricks. The Erivanski Place
is very handsome. Among the buildings the Palace of the governor,
the Greek and Armenian seminaries, and several barracks are
conspicuous. The large theatre, in the centre of the Erivanski
Place, was not then finished. It is evident that the old town must
give place to the new one. Everywhere houses are being pulled down,
and new ones built; the narrow streets will soon only be known by
tradition, and the only remains of the Oriental architecture, are
the Greek and Armenian houses. The churches are far inferior in
splendour and magnitude to the other buildings; the towers are low,
round, and generally covered with green glazed tiles. The oldest
Christian church stands upon a high rock in the fortress, and is