a surly
answer, or none at all, or else laughed in my face. This rudeness
would not, perhaps, have appeared so remarkable if I had come from
Europe.

It had already been my intention in Natschivan to travel with the
Russian post; but I had been dissuaded from doing so, as I was
assured that, as a solitary woman, I should not be able to agree
with the people. However, here I was determined to do so, and I
requested Dr. Muller to make the necessary preparations for me.

In order to travel in Russia by the post, it is necessary to procure
a padroschne (certificate of permission), which is only to be had in
a town where there are several grades of officials, as this
important document requires to be taken to six of the number. 1st,
to the treasurer; 2nd, to the police (of course with the passport,
certificate of residence, etc.); 3rd, to the commandant; 4th, again
to the police; 5th, again to the treasurer; and 6th, to the police
again. In the padroschne an accurate account must be given of how
far the traveller wishes to go, as the postmaster dare not proceed a
single werst beyond the station named. Finally, a half kopec (half
kreutzer), must be paid per werst for each horse. This at first
does not appear much; but is, nevertheless, a considerable tax, when
it is remembered that seven wersts are only equal to a geographical
mile, and that three horses are always used.

On the 26th of August, about 4 in the morning, the post was to have
been at the house; but it struck 6, and there was still no
appearance of it. If Dr. Muller had not been so kind as to go
there, I should not have started until the evening. About 7, I got
off--an excellent foretaste of my future progress.

We travelled certainly with speed; but any one who had not a body of
iron, or a well-cushioned spring carriage, would not find this very
agreeable, and would certainly prefer to travel slower upon these
uneven, bad roads.

The post carriage, for which ten kopecs a station is paid, is
nothing more than a very short, wooden, open car, with four wheels.
Instead of a seat, some hay is laid in it, and there is just room
enough for a small chest, upon which the driver sits. These cars
naturally jolt very much. There is nothing to take hold of, and it
requires some care to avoid being thrown out. The draught consists
of three horses abreast; over the centre one a wooden arch is fixed,
on which hang two or three bells, which continually made a m