ave I had to bear during this short journey!

On the 22nd of August I rejoined my caravan, where I was received
with cordiality.

23rd August. The country still presented the same features; one
large valley succeeding another. These valleys are less cultivated
than those in Persia; today, however, I saw one which was tolerably
well planted, and in which the villagers had even planted trees
before their huts.

24th August. Station Erivan. I was happy to have reached this
town, as I hoped to meet with some of my country-people here, and,
by their help, to find a quicker mode of conveyance to Tiflis. I
was determined to leave the caravan, since we did not go more than
four hours a day.

I had two letters; one to the town physician, the other to the
governor. The latter was in the country; Dr. Muller, however,
received me so well that I could not possibly have been better taken
care of.

Erivan {305} is situated on the river Zengui, and is the capital of
Armenia; it contains about 17,000 inhabitants, and is built upon low
hills, in a large plain, surrounded on all sides with mountains.
The town has some fortified walls. Although the European mode of
architecture already begins to predominate greatly, this town is by
no means to be reckoned among either the handsome or cleanly ones.
I was most amused by the bazaars, not on account of their contents,
for these do not present any remarkable features, but because I
always saw there different, and for the most part unknown, national
costumes. There were Tartars, Cossacks, Circassians, Georgians,
Mingrelians, Turkonians, Armenians, etc.; chiefly powerful, handsome
people, with fine expressive features--particularly the Tartars and
Circassians. Their dress partly resembled the Persian; indeed that
of the Tartars differed from it only by points to the boots, and a
less lofty cap. The points on the boots are frequently as much as
four inches long, and turned inward and towards the end; the caps
are also pointed, and made of black fur, but not more than half as
high. Very few of the women of these tribes are seen in the
streets, and those are enveloped in wrappers; nevertheless, they do
not veil their faces.

The Russians and the Cossacks have stupid coarse features, and their
behaviour corresponds completely to what their appearance indicates;
I never met with a people so covetous, coarse, and slavish as they
are. When I asked about anything, they either gave me