was at the height of its prosperity about
the end of the fifteenth century, under the dominion of Genueser.
Its population at that time is said to have been upwards of 200,000.
It has now declined to a minor town, with 5,000 inhabitants.

Half-ruined fortification walls and towers of the time of Genueser
remain, as well as a fine mosque, which has been turned into a
Christian church by the Russians.

The town lies upon a large bay of the Black Sea, on the declivity of
barren hills. Pretty gardens between the houses form the only
vegetation to be seen.

28th September. We stopped this morning at Jalta, a very small
village, containing 500 inhabitants, and a handsome church founded
by the Prince Woronzoff. It is built in pure Gothic style, and
stands upon a hill outside of the village. The country is again
delightful here, and beautiful hills and mountains, partly covered
with fine woods, partly rising in steep precipices, extend close to
the sea-shore.

The steamer stayed twenty-four hours at Jalta. I took advantage of
the time to make an excursion to Alupka, one of the estates of
Prince Woronzoff, famous for a castle which is considered one of the
curiosities of the Crimea. The road to it passed over low ranges of
hills close to the sea through a true natural park, which had here
and there been embellished by the help of art. The most elegant
castles and country-houses belonging to the Russian nobles are
seated between woods and groves, gardens and vineyards, in open
spaces on hills and declivities. The whole prospect is so charming,
that it appears as if prosperity, happiness, and peace, only reigned
here.

The first villa which attracted me was that of Count Leo Potocki.
The building is extremely tasteful. The gardens were laid out with
art and sumptuousness. The situation is delightful, with an
extensive view of the sea and neighbourhood.

A second magnificent building, which, however, is more remarkable
for magnitude than beauty of construction, lies near the sea-shore.
It resembles an ordinary square house with several stories; and, as
I was informed, was built as a country bathing-place of the emperor,
but had not yet been made use of. This castle is called Oriander.

Far handsomer than this palace was the charming country-house of
Prince Mirzewsky. It is seated on a hill, in the centre of a
magnificent park, and affords a delightful view of the mountains and
sea. The principal front is Got