four poles over the river, and, having poured
water over it, he and any members of his family who may happen to be
available proceed to run round and jump and dance upon the whole mass,
singing and smoking all the time. This pressure has the effect of
squeezing the fine sago starch through the mat into a trough below
(usually an old canoe), full of water, where it remains until it
settles. The water is then run off, and the white sticky mass is sold
to Chinamen. It is satisfactory to know that it goes through a good
many more washings before it is considered fit for the market.

Brunei is said to have been at one time a town of 25,000 houses--such
as they were--with an average of from five to seventeen occupants to
each house. This does not, however, include the Sultan and his
relatives, with their numerous retinues. Then the numbers dwindled
down to 10,000 inhabitants; and at present it is difficult to believe
that there are more than half that number; but we are told that some
5,000 are now away on the war-path.

[Illustration: FISHING-STAKES, SARAWAK RIVER]

At two o'clock exactly we landed, or, to be more precise, climbed up
a narrow ladder, the rungs of which were _very_ far apart, to a wooden
staging supported on piles. It was a difficult feat to perform
gracefully, and the noise of a salute of nineteen guns, fired almost
in our ears, did not tend to facilitate matters or make one feel more
comfortable. Then we were led up a long wooden pier, on which stood
some small but beautifully ornamented cannon, of Brunei manufacture,
until we came to a large room, at one end of which stood a sort of
dais, like an enlarged bedstead, covered with mats. On this the
Sultan--an ugly, smiling, feeble old man--shortly afterwards took his
seat. He was attended by retainers bearing betel-boxes, spittoons,
weapons, and all sorts of things which his Majesty might want or fancy
that he wanted. He received us affably, shaking hands with us all, and
inviting us to be seated, after which he ordered large wax candles to
be placed in front of Tom and me, Tom's candle, however, being much
the bigger of the two. This was intended as a great compliment, and if
times had not been so bad and beeswax so scarce, the candles would, we
were informed, have been of even greater size. We were then offered
cigarettes and excellent tea, flavoured with herbs, very hot and
sweet.

The sides of the room had been left open, for the sake of coolness,
bu