spect the ancient Dutch East Indian
town. It is the oldest European settlement in the Eastern Archipelago,
and has the air of respectability which belongs to old establishments
of every kind and in every part of the world. In comparing Macassar
with Singapore, it must be remembered that under Dutch administration
the community is left in a much greater degree to its own resources.
Of the results of the two systems of government, in relation to the
general prosperity, there is no room for doubt and uncertainty. The
exclusive policy of the Dutch, the obstacles opposed to commerce, when
not carried on under the national flag, have produced a lethargy and
stagnation, with which the marvellous growth of free and untrammelled
trade at Singapore offers a striking contrast. The Dutch have but a
slender hold over the Celebes. The physical configuration of the
island is singularly straggling. To this circumstance it is probably
due that the population is divided, both in race and language, into
several distinct tribes.

[Illustration: KINA BALU, 13,700 FEET]

Outside Fort Rotterdam a large level space is reserved as a public
park. Its drives are shaded by fine avenues. In the outskirts of
Macassar the streets become lanes, passing through rich groves of
tropical vegetation. The slender dwellings of the native population,
formed of matting stretched on a light framework of bamboo, are seen
peering out from underneath the overhanging canopy of dense foliage.

[Illustration: Our Coachman, Macassar]

Having called on the Governor, we drove to the Hotel Macassar, where,
with the assistance of the captain of a Norwegian ship, dinner got
itself ordered. After taking this precaution we drove out into the
country, or rather the suburbs, to look at a large collection of
native arms, from this and the surrounding islands. We were specially
interested in the narrow Dyak shields and the wider ones which come
from further north, as well as in the masks, skulls, and war-cloaks
from Bali, Lombook, and Sumbawa, the musical instruments and weapons
peculiar to Celebes, and the spears and kreises from all parts. So
badly arranged were they, however, and kept in such a dark outhouse,
that it was impossible to appreciate their value properly. After
inviting the owner--a superintendent of police--and his family to
visit the yacht, we continued our drive among pretty villas and
bungalows, surrounded by the usual tropical fence, with gorgeous
flower