small densely wooded
islets that dotted the bay were mirrored in its unruffled surface. The
scene was altogether most picturesque, and reminded me a good deal of
the splendid harbour of Rio; but without, of course, the Corcovado or
Sugar-loaf Hill, or those curiously shaped Organ Mountains in the
background. Once in the river, the view became quite different, and
much more shut in, owing to the dense walls of mangrove and other
tropical vegetation which lined either side of the wide stream, up
which the tide was swiftly flowing. The air now seemed fresh and pure;
but in other states of the tide it is, I am told, very much the
reverse.

In about half an hour we reached a junction of two streams, where the
boats composing our flotilla had to part company--the steam-launch to
be left behind, the prahu to lead the way, and the cutter to be
paddled and punted up after us as far as she could go. This point
proved to be only to a small landing-place, at which eight prahus were
drawn up near two temporary wooden kajang huts belonging to the
bird's-nest takers, members of the Eraan tribe, to whom the caves are
let. Birds'-nests, it may be remarked, are a profitable property,
yielding a royalty of 15,000 dollars, or over 2,500_l._ a year, to the
North Borneo Company.

From the cutter we embarked in the prahu, and from the prahu we
finally landed in a swamp, where an hour's rest was allowed for the
coolies to get their food, whilst we completed the arrangements for
our return voyage, which, on account of the tide, promised to be much
more difficult.

At 10.45 A.M. we commenced the real hard work of the expedition.
Everyone walked except me, and I had to be carried in a very light
chair by two coolies, who were frequently relieved. It was rather
serious work for the bearers--to say nothing of my feelings--for they
had never carried a chair before, and the way lay through thick
jungle, constantly interspersed by morasses and swamps, and obstructed
by fallen trees, overhanging branches, thorny creepers, and marshy
streams. At first I had many misgivings, but soon gained confidence
when I saw how careful the men were, and how anxious to avoid an
accident. Two coolies went on in front, and with their sharp parongs
cut down or hacked away the more serious obstacles. If either the
chair or I caught in a tree or a thorn, or if any special difficulty
presented itself, somebody appeared from somewhere and rendered prompt
assistance.