his headquarters at Lahore. In the best
days of Moghal rule Agra and Lahore were the two capitals of the
Empire. Lahore lay on the route to Kabul and Kashmir, and it was
essential both to the power and to the pleasures of the Emperors that it
should be strongly held and united to Delhi and Agra by a Royal or
_Badshahi_ Road. The City and the Suburbs in the reign of Shahjahan
probably covered three or four times the area occupied by the town in
the days of Sikh rule. All round the city are evidences of its former
greatness in ruined walls and domes.

~The Civil Station.~--The Anarkali gardens and the buildings near them
mark the site of the first Civil Station. John Lawrence's house, now
owned by the Raja of Punch, is beyond the Chauburji on the Multan Road.
The Civil Lines have stretched far to the south-east in the direction of
the Cantonment, which till lately took its name from the tomb of Mian
Mir, Jahangir's spiritual master. The soil is poor and arid. Formerly
the roads were lined with dusty tamarisks. But of late better trees have
been planted, and the Mall is now quite a fine thoroughfare. The
Lawrence Hall Gardens and the grounds of Government House show what can
be done to produce beauty out of a bad soil when there is no lack of
water. There is little to praise in the architecture or statuary of
modern Lahore. The marble canopy over Queen Victoria's statue is however
a good piece of work. Of the two cathedrals the Roman Catholic is the
better building. The Montgomery Hall with the smaller Lawrence Hall
attached, a fine structure in a good position in the public gardens, is
the centre of European social life in Lahore. Government House is close
by, on the opposite side of the Mall. Its core, now a unique and
beautiful dining-room with domed roof and modern oriental decoration, is
the tomb of Muhammad Kasim Khan, a cousin of Akbar. Jamadar Khushal
Singh, a well-known man in Ranjit Singh's reign, built a house round the
tomb. After annexation, Henry Lawrence occupied it for a time, and Sir
Robert Montgomery adopted it as Government House. It is now much
transformed. Beyond Government House on the road to the Cantonment are
the Club and the Panjab Chiefs' College, the only successful attempt in
Lahore to adapt oriental design to modern conditions.

[Illustration: Fig. 147. Street in Lahore.]

~The Indian City.~--In its streets and _bazars_ Lahore is a truly eastern
city, and far more interesting than Delhi, so