, and
the Roshanara Gardens. It was on this side that the mutineers made their
most dangerous attacks. The road along the Ridge from the Flagstaff
Tower passes the Chauburji Mosque and Hindu Rao's house, which was the
principal target of the City batteries and was gallantly held by Major
Reid with his Sirmur Gurkhas, the Guides, and the 60th Rifles. Beyond
Hindu Rao's house is one of the stone pillars of Asoka, which Firoz
Shah Tughlak transported to Delhi. Still further south is the Mutiny
Memorial. As one reads the tale of the losses of the different regiments
one realizes in some measure the horrors and the heroism of which the
Ridge was witness.

[Illustration: Fig. 143. Delhi Mutiny Monument.

'In memory of the officers and soldiers, British and native, of the
Delhi Field Force who were killed in action or died of wounds or disease
between the 30th May and 20th September 1857.'

'This monument has been erected by the comrades who lament their loss
and by the Govmt: they served so well.']

~The City.~--When visiting the City from the Civil Lines it is well to
follow the road, which passing the Kudsia Gardens leads straight to the
Kashmir Gate, one of two places in India (the Lucknow Residency is the
other) which must stir with grateful pride the heart of the most
phlegmatic of Englishmen. The road from the Gate to the Fort and the
Jama Masjid is rich in memories of the Mutiny. It has on its left S.
James' Church, with memorial tablets within and outside the shot-riddled
globe which once surmounted its dome. Further on are the obelisk to the
telegraph officers who stuck to their posts on the fatal 11th of May,
and on a gateway of the Old Magazine a record of the heroism of the nine
devoted men, who blew it up, losing five of their number in the
explosion. Passing under the railway bridge one comes out on the open
space in front of Shahjahan's palace fort, which was finished about 1648
A.D. To the beautiful buildings erected by his father Aurangzeb added
the little Moti Masjid or Pearl Mosque. But he never lived at Delhi
after 1682. The palace is therefore associated with the tragedies and
squalor of the decline and fall of the Moghal Empire rather than with
its glories. In 1739 it was robbed of the Kohinur and the Peacock throne
by Nadir Shah, in 1788 it saw the descendants of Akbar tortured and the
aged Emperor blinded by the hateful Ghulam Kadir, and on 16th May, 1857
the mutineers massacred fifty Christians ca