ars a stitch, some requiring soft silks to show them to
advantage, whilst others may need a stoutly twisted thread.

Chain stitch is universal, and one of the most ancient of stitches. It
is the most commonly used of a group that might be described as linked
stitches. Much beautiful work has been carried out entirely in it, and
when a monotonous even line is required, this is a most suitable stitch
to employ. It is equally in request for outline and filling in, and its
chain-like adaptability makes it specially good for following out curved
forms or spiral lines. Tambour stitch is practically the same in result,
though worked in quite a different manner, for it is carried out in a
frame with a fine crochet hook, instead of with a needle. This makes it
quicker in execution, but more mechanical in appearance, so it is not to
be as much recommended.

[Illustration: Fig. 25.]

To work chain stitch (fig. 25) bring the needle through at the top of
the traced line, hold the working thread down towards the left with the
thumb, insert the needle at the point where the thread has just come
through and bring it up on the traced line about one-sixteenth of an
inch further along, draw the thread through over the held down thread.
It should show a neat line of back-stitching on the reverse side. The
chain can be made broader by inserting the needle a little to the right,
instead of at the exact point where the last thread came through. Care
must be taken in the working not to draw the thread too tightly, as this
stitch is inclined to pucker the material, especially when it is worked
in curved lines.

A flower and leaf worked with a solid filling of chain stitch are shown
in fig. 26. The dark outline of the flower is in back stitch, the centre
a mass of French knots, and the stem in stem stitch. By working the
petals in curved lines in this way the shape is well suggested, and the
play of light on the curves is particularly happy, especially if the
thread used is silk or gold. Another slight variation from this would be
to work the lines of chain stitch in different shades of colour, and so
get each petal gradually either lighter or darker towards its base; this
gives a very pretty effect. Fig. 27 shows an oak leaf carried out in
this way, the lines upon it indicate the way in which the stitches
would be worked. The rule in solid fillings is to work from the outside
inwards where possible, and thus make sure of a good outline.

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