practically all upon the surface. Owing to
the length of the stitches, this is not a very durable method, so it
should not be subjected to hard wear. The work has sometimes a flimsy,
unsatisfactory appearance, probably because of these long stitches. It
will be seen that the silk passing through to the back, and then
immediately to the front again, takes up very little of the material. A
method in use for giving greater strength in this way is to lay the silk
first in alternate lines and to fill up the gaps thus left upon a
second journey across the form. For added strength, use might be made of
a linen thread at the back, as in the _point couche rentre ou retire_
method that is discussed later.

[Illustration: Fig. 94.]

A gold thread outline gives a nice finish to laid work. If there is
nothing in the way of an outline, and the pattern and ground are both
covered with laid threads, the edges of the pattern are likely to look
weak. Fig. 94 shows a leaf filled in with rather loosely laid threads
and outlined and veined with gold passing, the veining answering the
double purpose of fixing down the laid threads and veining the leaf at
the same time.

In this work, the colouring is frequently in flat tones, but if
necessary it is quite easy to introduce gradation. Further variety can
be obtained by a contrast in colour in the tying-down threads.

APPLIED WORK

The ancient Latin term _opus consutum_, and the modern French one
_applique_, which is perhaps the name most commonly in use, both refer
to the same kind of work; what is now called cut work is quite
different from this, and is described elsewhere. Under the heading of
applied work comes anything that, cut out of one material, is applied to
another; it may have been previously embroidered, or it may be just the
plain stuff. Both kinds can, as has been proved, be carried out with
excellent effect, but much unsuitable and badly designed work has been
done by this method, with the result that the very name has fallen into
disrepute.

The simplest kind of applied work is that in which the design, traced
upon one material, then cut out along the outline of the pattern, is
applied to another material, the junction of the two materials being
hidden by a cord or suitable stitch. The applied work is most often
flat, but it can be in slight or in strong relief. The texture of the
materials employed may be an important factor in the result, for a
contrast in material