old spirally twisted
round a silken thread. It can be obtained in different sizes, the finest
qualities going by the name of tambour. Most passing has to be couched
on to the material, but it is possible to stitch in the tambour like
ordinary thread.

_Purl._--This resembles a smooth round hollow tube of metal, very
pliable and elastic; when pulled lengthways it is found to be
constructed like a closely coiled spiral spring. It is manufactured in
lengths of about one yard, and for use it is cut into small sections of
any required size with scissors or a knife. There are several varieties
of purl, namely, the smooth, rough, check, and wire check. The smooth
has a bright polished appearance, which is obtained by a flat gold wire
being spun spirally round; the rough has a duller and more yellow
appearance, which is owing to the wire having been rounded; the check is
bright and sparkling, and consists of the flattened wire spun in a
different way, so that parts of it catch the light and sparkle; the wire
check is the same thing, but duller and of a deeper yellow, owing again
to its being made of the round wire.

_Bullion._--This is the name given to the larger sizes of purl.

_Pearl Purl._--This is manufactured in the same spiral tube-like fashion
as the other purl, but the gold wire is previously hollowed out in this
[inverted U] shape, the convex side being the one exposed. This, when
spun round, has the appearance of a string of tiny gold beads. It is
frequently used as an outlining thread.

Various gold twists and cords can be obtained; they are composed of
several threads twisted up in the usual cord fashion, each ply
consisting of gold spun round a silk thread.

_Plate_ is a flat strip of metal commonly about one-sixteenth of an inch
wide; it can be obtained in different widths.

_Spangles._--These are small variously shaped pieces of thin metal,
usually pierced with a hole in the centre for fixing on to the material.
They are frequently circular in shape, and either flat or slightly
concave; the latter are the prettier. Many fancy shapes also are
obtainable, but they are inclined to look tawdry, and suggestive of the
pantomime.

_Cloth of Gold and Silver._--This is a fabric manufactured of silk, with
gold or silver thread inwoven in the making. It is not now so much used
as formerly, when it was in great request for robes of kings and other
high dignitaries of church or state.

A special make of silk for co