t resembled the plumage of a
bird.

[Illustration: Fig. 42.]

Stem stitch, well known and frequently in use for various purposes, such
as for lines, outlines, gradated and flat fillings, and so on, is
usually done in the hand, and is quite simple; fig. 43 explains the
working. If a broad line is required the needle is put in more
obliquely, and a raised effect can be obtained by working over a laid
thread. The thread must be kept to the same side of the needle, either
to the left or to the right as better suits the purpose in hand; the
effect is more line-like when it is kept to the right. Occasionally,
when just a double line is to be worked, it is deliberately done in the
two ways, and then the line resembles a narrow plait. A solid filling
in stem stitch should be worked in lines as illustrated in the squirrel
in fig. 44. This little beast is taken from the curtain shown in Plate
VII., and is a good example of the life and interest that the
introduction of such things adds to embroideries.

[Illustration: Fig. 43.]

[Illustration: Fig. 44.]

The stitches just described were largely used in crewel work. This is a
rather vague name that denotes a decorative kind of needlework carried
out with coloured wools upon a plain white linen ground. The design is
usually composed of conventionally treated leaves and flowers, often
growing from boldly curved stems. These were partly shaded in solid
stitches, partly worked with geometrical open fillings; ornamental birds
and beasts of all kinds were introduced, and the effect of the whole was
very beautiful. The work is characteristically English, and a great
deal of it was executed in the XVIIth century. Plates VII. and VIII. are
illustrative of the type of work, and fig. 45 represents a detail. The
various stitches which occur in this drawing are stem, herring-bone,
long and short, knot, basket, buttonhole, single chain and satin
stitches.

[Illustration: Fig. 45.]

[Illustration: Fig. 46.]

[Illustration: Fig. 47.]

Overcast stitch in embroidery is practically a very short raised satin
stitch. It requires neat workmanship, and then makes a bold clear line
or outline. To work it (fig. 46)--Run or couch down a thread on the
traced line, then with fine thread cover this over with close upright
stitches, picking up as little material as possible each time in order
to make the line clear and round. The stitch is worked most perfectly in
a frame.

Back stitch sometimes