ing a certain amount of spring in
it, such as flannel, cotton wadding, or wool; and for the third, an
underneath lining of some kind. A cord is sometimes inserted instead of
the inner layer of stuff, the lines of stitching running along either
side to keep it in place. Occasionally there are only the top and the
under layer, with no intervening material. The stitch usually employed
is a running, back, or chain stitch, and it can be of the colour of
the surface, or a contrast to it. Gold silk is often seen upon a white
linen ground. The chief interest in the work lies in the choice of
pattern, such things as colour, variety of stitching, interest in
material, are not made much of. In planning the pattern, use is made of
the knowledge that the closely stitched parts will lie more flatly, so
it frequently happens that the ground has a small diaper running over
it, and the pattern part, being less worked upon, perhaps only outlined,
stands out more and forms an effective contrast.

[Illustration: Fig. 100.]

RAISED WORK

In the XIVth century raised work was commonly done, but few examples are
known of date earlier than this. The raised effect is obtained by an
interposed layer of padding, which is a good method of getting a certain
kind of effect. It is perhaps wise to err on the side of too little
rather than too much relief. An example of too much and also of a wrong
kind is the English stump work that was popular in the XVIIth century,
when figures were stuffed like dolls, the clothes made separately and
attached, even to the shoes and stockings. Germain de St. Aubin, writing
in 1769, describes with much admiration a kind of _broderie en ronde
bosse_, apparently much the same thing and in equally doubtful taste,
though the skill required to carry it out must have been considerable.

The work, usually done in a frame, must be well carried out technically;
the padding should be quite perfect in the form required before the
final surface layer is worked over it, for this one will not make any
deficiency right, but will only serve to show it up the more. Another
point to be careful about is to make the padding stop well within the
traced line of the pattern, otherwise the finished design will turn out
much larger than was originally intended. The outline is sometimes
worked round at the commencement, whereby its correctness is ensured.

[Illustration: Fig. 101.]

[Illustration: Fig. 102.]

Many different materials